Nothing from Bardibas as of yet, but here are some more Kathmandu offerings...
On the occasion of Loshar—Tibetan New Year—Migyoung and I went by bicycle to Bodhnath Stupa, which is said to be one of the largest Buddhist stupas in the world. It’s a frenzy of activity as monks, pilgrims and laypeople make their way around the stupa, dutifully turning each prayer wheel, in a clockwise direction. Bodhnath is certainly one of the most accessible places to experience Tibetan culture and religion. Tibetan monasteries dot the surrounding villages and hillsides, and visiting them—we had a chance to visit a couple—is one of the delights of visiting the area. The villages seemed to be a harmonious mix of Nepalese and Tibetans—very friendly people regardless of nationality or ethnicity. It is such a hallmark of this country: unbridled friendliness. In actuality, it’s quite difficult for me to discern the many different ethnic groups that make up Nepal, but with Tibetans, the dress is normally a very good indicator.
The proprietors of our guesthouse are also Buddhist and from the Manang region of Nepal near the Tibetan border, and so we also had a bit of a party on the rooftop at the end of day. There was plenty of chang (a fermented rice wine) and tumba (a fermented millet wine) available. Tumba is prepared by pouring hot water over the millet, letting it sit for a while, and then drinking it through a metal or reed straw. The vessels—they are probably about one liter—can be refilled four times without replenishing the millet, and at about 40-50 cents it is an economical—and very warming—way to spend the evening. A potent one as well…
In the surrounding villages of Boudha, we spotted a field of rice paper still attached to screens and propped against sticks drying in the late afternoon sun. Migyoung was, of course, quite interested and we stopped to speak with some of the workers in our limited Nepali, but like a lot of people in the Kathmandu Valley, their English was better than our Nepali… The rice paper is much thinner than the Korean variety that Migyoung uses, yet sturdy and beautiful nonetheless. Making paper the Nepali way is something that Migyoung is keen to learn.
February 24
We attended a lecture on caste and ethnicity in Nepal this morning/afternoon presented by a Jesuit father who has been in Nepal for over 30 years. Learning about all of the different sub-castes within the four main castes was both fascinating and somewhat confusing. Later in the afternoon, we had an opportunity to “interview” (with the aid of an interpreter) a young man from the dalit caste (the lowest, but a rather new term that roughly translates into “those that are oppressed”). I found it rather difficult asking him questions about what it’s like to be a dalit, and what he thinks of the caste system in general. It seemed too personal, too encroaching, but at the same time, given the fact that I will be working with an organization that seeks to empower dalit women, it is an uncomfortable feeling and difficulty that I must learn to deal with… Compared to India, however, the caste system—on initial viewing and information—doesn’t seem nearly as oppressive and stifling. As the only Hindu Kingdom in the world—and with a healthy mix of other religions and influences—Hinduism seems as much a part of the cultural framework as it does a religion.
On its best days, Kathmandu is a dissonance of stinks. My nose and throat are the two parts of my anatomy that have suffered the most so far. Crossing over the river—or getting anywhere near it, really—is an almost unbearable experience, and the daily dust and fumes makes walking or cycling along thoroughfares very nearly asphyxiating. It is difficult to pinpoint any one main cause, if there is one, but I am almost certain that for most Nepalese it is a case of not seeing what is actually there. I would imagine that growing up in the city socializes children to the ordinariness of rubbish on the streets and open sewers spilling into waterways. Is this a lack of concern on the part of government and city officials, or funds to deal with the issue; a lack of education about these issues on the part of urbanites; the influx of people into the valley over the past decade; a lack of infrastructure to deal with pressing environmental and ecological issues; a combination of all or none of the above? Much too soon for me to discern at this point…