The last few days have been exhaustive ones filled with VSO briefings and orientations and very little opportunity to explore the city. We’ve had security briefings from the British Embassy regarding the Maoist situation and how to deal with problems should they arise. A general “bandh” or strike is set for tomorrow, and there has already been few minor bombings in the city, which I admittedly knew nothing about until reading the local papers. The Nepali Maoists must be the most considerate and thoughtful revolutionaries in history, giving warnings and advance notices regarding their attacks. Apparently the streets will be deserted tomorrow—sans motorized vehicles—because of the strike and so they may also be, unwittingly, the best environmental/air quality policy the city has seen…
The Maoists are apparently a lot more active out in the countryside than I had originally thought, but the degree to which they control the areas outside of Kathmandu Valley is debatable. Perhaps more than anything else, they have succeeded in disrupting normal life, but the effect they have had politically—in a country that is rampant with corruption of all political persuasions—is something that is just too complicated for me to get a grasp on at this point. NGO workers like myself are warned that local Maoist leaders may approach us in post to inquire about our work...
The Maoist “threat” has certainly taken its toll on the tourism industry—a big moneymaker here—and has not been good for the overall economy. There are certainly not a lot of Americans around, and that is almost always a good thing… NGOs, on the other hand, are a presence seen throughout the northeastern part of the city. The UNICEF office is within view (from the rooftop) of my guesthouse, and I have already encountered many lumbering UNDP SUVS on the road. Just about every other midsize European and American NGO that you can think of has some representation here, with DFID and the EU (as opposed to USAID) seemingly making up the bulk of international donor monies. I hope to develop some relationships with these agencies in due course when my work with the Women’s Culture Development Centre begins.
I made my first harrowing excursion on bicycle through the maddening streets this afternoon—and Indian made tank of a bicycle that can withstand the back alleys and cavernous potholes. The trip actually wasn’t quite as bad as I had anticipated. Once you are able to wheel yourself out onto the road and continue to move forward, vehicles can blare their horns all they like—and they do constantly—there isn’t that much they can do to get around you. Intersections are a bit trickier since there are no stop or yield signs and traffic pretty much just goes without end. A ride in the back alleys is like sauntering around a zoo: on my first ride I passed two baby calves, three or four ducks and a number of both tethered and free range goats.
I think we have had dhal bhat almost everyday, and it was, fittingly, it was our first meal in country. Normally this not only consists of the lentils, but also a nice curry, spinach and a few other vegetables depending on the price and where you get it. It’s also one of those meals that the Nepalese will just piling on until you’ve had your fill. Amazingly, I have almost completely weaned myself off of coffee in favor of Nepalese chai, and everyday includes a number of tea breaks, which I never tire of.
Friday the 13th
Yesterday’s strike was almost festival like in nature—people happily strode down the middle of roads due to the absence of taxis and other autos—with the exception of the many military transport vehicles buzzing about the city and outside the gates of the royal palace. It was also my first full day of language class: I exhausted pretty much every phrase I know yesterday afternoon making my way around Kathmandu on bicycle, and Migyoung and I have the added advantage of being able to practice with each other. I am really going to try hard and focus on getting some of the basics of the language down in the next couple of weeks, which I see as being one of the keys to integrating into my community and with my organization.
I would like to make a few more comments or observations regarding the culture and customs of Nepal, but at this point I am still trying to process a lot of things and their significance… In due time, I hope to get around to this. I can say, however, that the Nepalese are just as friendly and hospitable as I remember them being in the past. This hospitality is legendary and well deserved. Despite the many hardships of life here—and visually, there are many—I have been greeted with warmth and friendship, which is about as much as one could ask and hope for. More later….